Saturday, March 13, 2010

Something is Rotten in the State of Cabinwa

The past few weeks have had some big events. I’m sorry it’s been so long since I’ve updated—I’ve been really busy with the play, and now that we’re getting ready to leave, there are a million things to wrap up. So a few weeks ago, the big event was the tsunami that never really came. The good news turned out to be that the Marshall Islands rarely have serious tsunamis because of the geography—I’m not completely sure, but I guess it has something to do with the wide, shallow reefs and the underwater topography. The wave was due to hit at 11:40, which was also good, because it was low tide.

But even better than all of that was the fact that there actually was no wave. This, however, did not prevent me from being really scared when my mom and then Jason called me at 5:30 am on Saturday and told me what was supposed to happen. It was strange, because that night, we had the first thunderstorm I’d seen so far while we were here, and it was really loud—the flashes of lightening much brighter than any I’d seen in a long time. So with the unexpected storm, the night was already off to a strange start. Then, I got some calls very early in the morning. At first I figured that they had just forgotten about the time difference, but then I realized something was probably wrong.

 

Living on so small of an island makes avoiding a tsunami really difficult. There is never more than a few hundred feet separating you from the ocean, and since there is pretty much zero elevation on Majuro (no hills, no slopes) I wasn’t sure what to do. I sort of drifted in and out of sleep for a half hour, dreamed that the tsunami came and knocked over our trailer, then got up, had some breakfast, and went to the only reasonable place the rest of us could think to go—the second floor of a high school building. We waited up there with some World Teach people, but nothing ever really happened, which was a relief, but also somewhat anticlimactic.

 

Anyway, things have been wrapping up at school. This week, Thursday and Friday were half days because we were supposed to give the kids finals. We were basically reviewing all week, and I was trying to teach them a few new things, including how to tell me that they are feeling sick, since a lot of times, a kid will just put their head down on the desk because something is wrong and not be able to tell me what hurts. I had a chance to see if my lessons were working when my favorite student, Robson, was walking around clutching his stomach and acting strange. So I kept saying, Robson, what’s wrong? What is hurting? And he wouldn’t tell me. Later that afternoon, he was feeling better, so I said Robson, were you sick earlier? And he said, yes. So I asked him again, what hurt?, thinking that he would say “I had a stomach ache”  or “I had a headache” which is what I taught them to say. But instead he just looked at me and goes, “I… poop.”

 

 The last few weeks have been hard because my mentor teacher’s mother in law died, so she’s been out for two weeks. Marshallese funerals are pretty lengthy affairs, and after the funeral here in Majuro, she went to Arno, a nearby atoll which was where her mother-in-law was from. So the school has sent some other teachers to help me out, which is good, because the kids don’t really listen to me. Monday was an interesting day because our entire class went to the funeral for my mentor teacher’s mother-in-law. It was a challenge to get the kids quiet, but it ended up being okay. We went with some other classes in the school. It took about an hour and then we went back to class. That afternoon, Eric and I went again with the entire staff.

 

The play has been going all week. It has been really good—I have been appointed master of the props (that is not my actual title, but I think it sounds better that way). I had absolutely no idea what I was doing, so everything was a little crazy at first, but we had performances for 6 nights this week, so I’ve had a chance to get it down. I have two assistants, Kami and Randon, who are really cute little 9th grade boys. However, they tend to leave backstage for the library every 5 minutes to go check the new Gmail accounts I helped them make the other day. The performances have been pretty good. The stage is outdoors, and we’ve had rain all week, which makes it a little challenging, and the lightbulbs almost caught on fire, but we have avoided big disasters so far. Saturday was the last performance, and then today is the cast party.

 

Friday was our last day of school. It was a ridiculous day. The kids took a final in the morning, and then I gave them all bracelets and a new pencil sharpener. Then, they set up a tent outside, and Eric and I sat at a table. And every single student in the school lined up into a huge line, Kindergarten through 6th grade, and shook our hand. I kept saying komol tata, iakwe (thank you, goodbye) as they all filed past. What was more, about every third kid had brought us a gift. They give handicrafts here, necklaces with shells and little wicker flowers and stuff, as gifts when you leave. By the time all the kids went past, Eric and I had an entire box full of stuff. I felt almost embarrassed, because I had only been here for 10 weeks, and to be honest, half the time I had absolutely no clue what I was doing. To be shown that sort of gratitude was really overwhelming.

 

After the shaking hands, we went back to the classroom, and for our party had Spam pizza, flamin’ hot cheetoes, and oreos, which I thought was a really appropriate Marshallese last supper. I said goodbye to the kids and got really sad. It was hard because they’re so little, and don’t speak much English, so I’m not really sure how much they would miss me, but either way, I’m really going to miss them. The kids are really different from any American children I’ve ever worked with before. I know I’m running the risk of romanticizing the island culture, and there are certainly still problems in the RMI, but there is something refreshing about kids who don’t really have a lot of stuff, but who are still just really happy enthusiastic and love to play outside and run around.

 

After our party was over, I went over to Eric’s party. The kids are a little older, so they were more organized that my kids, and they had prepared this whole lunch and a dance and speeches.  I had gotten to know Eric’s kids pretty well, too, so they made me sit at the table with Eric and then they brought more handicrafts.

 

We left the school when we were done because it was a bit awkward to hang around—the bad part about not leaving until Monday is that I run the risk of seeing my kids everywhere, and it’s not that I don’t want to see them, but I just wanted to say a clean goodbye and then leave. Eric actually left today since he is going on the island hopper plane to Manila, and so he won’t see the kids again.  Then Friday evening, we had one more party to go to—the staff party for DES. This was also the third quarter ending party, but they still said some really nice things to us, and then gave us more handicrafts. So I will say this seriously: if you want a Marshallese handicraft, please come see me when I get home if you want something. I have more than I would ever know what to do with—I’ve already given a lot of it away, and I still have too much. 

Thursday, February 25, 2010

The Grand Opening

These are just a few photos from the Wednesday. There is a new building that the Americans funded opening at Delap that will be used for fourth and fifth grade classes, I think. So there was a huge ceremony: the American ambassador came, and lots of other probably important people were there. A few days ago, Sumiko asked me if I knew how to sew a dress. I told her I did not, so she had her aunt make me a dress, which was the same dress all of the ladies at the school wore for that day. So I got my first veritable Marshallese mumu, and all of the kids loved it. The other ladies at the school kept coming up to me and grabbing my sleeve and saying "eman, eman" which means "good! good!" It was a really fun day. There was lots of dancing, including the Delap group IDK [5th/6th grade], who dress up in bandanas and long sleeve shirts and low hats and perform ridiculous....I don't even know the term I'm looking for. I was going to say "street dances" but that sounds really stupid. And if I say, stuff like on "America's Best Dance Crew" you will know I have watched that show. Whatever-- either way, they were really funny and very good dancers. 

That afternoon I started my career as assistant volleyball coach for the 6th grade girls. Our season is looking promising so far. The girls are actually really, really good. Much better than me. We have our first game on Tuesday, so that should be pretty exciting. 


Here are some pictures from the day--


The kindergarteners doing their dance for the ceremony. 



The staff picture from the grand opening of the new building. I do not need to tell you who I am because I still look really pale even after 2 months spent near the equator (someone said, "you're like a blinding white beacon.") I'm wearing a Marshallese mumu, which is basically a dress which is worn by most of the older women on the island. 

Saturday, February 20, 2010

3C Class, DES

Finally got a picture of my class. There is one where they are all standing still, but I thought this would be more true to their actual nature... lots of hitting going on and gangsta signs being flashed


Friday, February 19, 2010

Sorry for the delay. I have fallen off my usual once a week schedule of updating because the internet and the power up on our part of the island have been really bad lately. And also I have become a little lazy. I’m not sure what has been going on with our power. It’s gone off every day for the past few days, and it’s bad because it gets really hot inside our trailers, and we have lots of food inside the refrigerators.

So. I am trying to think of new and exciting things that have happened to me. Last weekend, it was Peter’s birthday, so on Saturday we went to his favorite place, Dar, to eat. Dar is this little Marshallese restaurant with really good Marshallese and American food. It is also the best bargain deal ever. Sometimes I am surprised that things are just about as expensive on this island as they are back in the states. I think minimum wage here is something like a dollar an hour, so I’m not sure how people afford most things. I think they generally just eat a ton of rice, which is really cheap. The grocery we shop at, Payless, is a little expensive—people I think get most of their food from these little corner stores …the Marshallese version of peripteros in Greece. Like the peripteros, they are everywhere, and sell mostly junk food. The stores are run by the Chinese and the stuff they sell is really cheap—I’ve heard some of it is smuggled in, but I’m not really sure. 

On Saturday night we went out for the first time. Edie, Kyle and I, and also 2 other teachers from the high school—one World Teach and one Dartmouth grad—got a ride down to the resort, where they had karaoke. It was pretty deserted, but we were treated to a stirring rendition of “We Are The World” by one of the really flamboyant Fijian barbers who works on the island (someone said that this was Peanut Delicious, the most notorious of the barbers, but I am not really sure). Then I decided to select Jingle Bell Rock and the atmosphere sort of declined from there.

Anyway on Sunday we went out to this island called Enemanit with a man named Kirk Pino. He is a Hawai’ian guy who Eric and Kyle had met in Tide Table one evening. Eric and Kyle have a really good talent for meeting people which I utterly lack. So for 10$ a person, he took us out to this little island on the outer part of the atoll. Enemanit is like a public beach (I think) but of course you have to have the means—a boat—to get out there. It was a pretty fun day—there was a downed fighter plane in the lagoon, and a dock for swimming, and some of the biggest pigs I have ever seen. On the way back, our boat broke down so it took awhile to get home.

This week has been going pretty well. The class is settling into a routine, and teaching has become much easier. Granted, the kids are still really poorly behaved for me, but I still have some good leverage with the stickers. They are endlessly fascinated by the stickers… the only hitch I’ve ran into so far was when I tried to give Iverson, one of the boys, a Dora the Explorer sticker. You have to picture a really tiny cute eight year old with a long rat-tail saying this, but when I tried to give him Dora, he got really upset, and yelled “NOT DORA!!!,” which was actually his best use of English in the 7 weeks I have been here so far.  So I gave him Dora’s weird monkey-friend instead.

After school, I’ve been walking home with all of my kids who live in the Delap area. Behind the main street there is like a little side road that curves around and then meets the main road once again, and a lot of my students live back there. So it’s been fun to walk with them every day. Conversationally we still can’t get really far, but my favorite student, Robson (note: different from the Bobson who wrote me a valentine) has pretty good English, so he can translate sometimes.

Also this week we were learning about farms and I decided to show my kids a slideshow of Jason’s farm. They really liked it, and then we wrote him a letter. I was trying to get them to think of questions to ask him, but it was a little hard. Some of the rejected submissions included: “Do you have monkeys?” and “Do you grow carrots?” because that question was suggested at least 15 times. I think this might be because carrots are the only vegetable they know. The other day I was trying to teach likes and dislikes—having them say “I like ____. I don’t like _______.” Everyone kept telling me they didn’t like rice, which definitely is not true, so I after trying to explain that things you don’t like are things you think are bad, pretty much all 32 of them told me they don’t like carrots. 

Other happenings in the class… today I showed The Lion King and a few kids started crying when Mustafa died. We had to turn off the movie right around that point and I felt really bad. Not related, but one of my kids is moving to Arizona, so I decided to show him the pictures of Arizona I had on my computer, which were just of the Grand Canyon. So I think I convinced him that all of Arizona looks exactly like the Grand Canyon, which was not what I intended. And then again on the topic of misleading kids, I was trying to explain to the class what a “unicorn” was, and I drew one on the board, then had them draw me one for a bonus point on their quiz. After I collected the quizzes, I said to them, “so you know that a unicorn isn’t real, right?” and just got lots of blank stares.

This weekend we have plans to rent a golf cart and take it out to Laura, the edge of the atoll. There are some Dartmouth grads who are part of the year-long program who live out there. I think it’s only about 30 or so miles from town, but it takes about 2 hours to get there, because there’s only one road, and traffic can get really slow. We also are not sure how fast the golf cart goes. But we plan to go out there, eat some lunch, relax, then head back for dinner. It’s a bit crazy to think that after this, we only have one more free weekend, then it’s the dress rehearsal for the play.

I managed to upload some photos a few days ago. All photo credits go to Eric as usual. Also I finally took some pictures of my class so I'll try to get those up soon. 

The first one is: Kirk forcing us to dance on the boat ride home. 

Second: the trees on Enemanit 

Third: Ben, me and Robyn on the boat out to Enemanit

Fourth: Assembly day at Delap. The guy speaking is Baldwin, the principal 

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Monday, February 15, 2010

Happy Valentine's Day


I really hope this is readable... a valentine given to me by Bobson, one of Eric's students. 
Update to come soon. 



Monday, February 8, 2010

Finally loaded some older pictures from our trip out to Bikirin a few weeks ago. 
Robyn, Ben and I on the boat out to Bikirin 
View of Bikirin coming in on the boat
 From left: Mr. Domnick, a friend of Senator DeBrum's, Eric, Derek, Kyle, Me, Anna, Robyn, Ben, and Senator DeBrum